How to Wear Pearls in a Modern Way (Without Looking Dated)

Pearls look modern when the rest of the outfit is casual or unexpected. A strand of pearls with a white T-shirt and jeans looks current. The same strand with a twin set and a pleated skirt looks like a costume. So the trick isn't new pearls, it's new context.

Below are the specific ways stylists wear pearls now: what to pair them with, which lengths and shapes feel fresh, how to mix them with metal, and how to keep them from getting dull.

Pair pearls with casual pieces

The contrast between something polished and something relaxed is what makes pearls look current. Some combinations that always work:

• A short strand at 16 inches (41 cm) with a plain white or gray tee and straight jeans.
• Pearls over a crew neck knit or a sweatshirt, worn on top of the fabric.
• A single pearl strand with a leather jacket or an oversized blazer and a tank top.
• Pearl studs with a messy bun and no other jewelry, which looks clean and simple.
• A long rope of pearls with a slip dress, worn once or knotted loosely.

Mix pearls with gold and silver chains

The most current way to wear pearls is in a mixed stack. Put a short pearl strand at 15 to 16 inches (38 to 41 cm), then add a fine gold chain at 18 inches and maybe a chain with a small pendant at 20 inches. The pearls bring softness and the metal keeps it from looking too formal.

Pearls pair with any metal. Gold reads warmer and a little vintage, silver looks cool and modern. For spacing and how many layers to wear, see how to layer necklaces.

Choose a fresh pearl shape and size

Perfectly round, uniform 7 to 8 mm white pearls are the classic look. If that feels too formal, try a different shape. Baroque pearls are irregular and organic and look relaxed and artsy. Freshwater pearls with slightly uneven shapes have a softer, more casual look. A single pearl on a fine chain is the most minimal option and works every day.

Size changes the mood too. Small 4 to 5 mm pearls look delicate and young. Big 10 mm and larger pearls make a statement and suit bold outfits. If you want to wear pearls at the office and on weekends, 6 to 7 mm is the most flexible size.

Real or faux? For a trend piece or a casual stack, good glass or shell pearls look fine and you won't worry about them. For something you'll wear for years, real freshwater pearls are surprisingly affordable. A simple check: rub two pearls gently against your front teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty, imitation pearls feel smooth like glass.

Pick a pearl color that suits your skin

Pearls have a body color and an overtone, a faint tint you see in the shine. White pearls with a pink or rose overtone flatter fair and cool undertones. Cream and golden pearls look rich on warm and olive skin and on deep skin tones. Silver and gray pearls are flattering on almost everyone and look especially modern. Dark Tahitian-style pearls with green or purple overtones look striking on all skin tones.

If you're still working out your undertone, gold or silver jewelry for my skin tone walks through the tests.

Pearl lengths and how to wear each

A collar or choker strand at 14 to 16 inches (36 to 41 cm) is the most modern length right now and looks great with open necklines and tees. The princess length at 17 to 19 inches (43 to 48 cm) is the classic; it suits most necklines and is the easiest to wear to work.

Matinee strands at 20 to 24 inches (51 to 61 cm) look good over high necklines. Opera and rope lengths, 28 inches (71 cm) and longer, are the most flexible: wear them long, double them into two strands, or tie a loose knot at the bust for a 1920s feel. For pearl earrings, studs are timeless; a single pearl drop or a pearl on a small hoop feels newer.

Pearls for weddings and formal events

Pearls are a natural choice for brides and formal occasions, and here the classic look is right. A princess strand with a strapless or sweetheart neckline is timeless. For a lighter feel, go with a single pearl pendant or pearl drops, and let the dress do the work.

If you're a wedding guest, pearls are almost always appropriate. Just avoid looking like the bride by skipping the full strand plus big pearl earrings combination with a white or ivory dress.

How to care for pearls so they keep their glow

Pearls are soft compared to gemstones and react to chemicals. Put them on last, after perfume, hairspray and lotion, and take them off first. Wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing to remove skin oils. Store them flat in a soft pouch, not hanging (hanging stretches the silk thread) and not in a pile with metal pieces that can scratch them.

Strung pearls should be restrung every few years if you wear them a lot, or when you see the thread stretching between pearls. Want to see a strand on you before deciding on a length? Try a Pearl Necklace in Lody's jewelry try-on.

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